Bird life abounds on and around this rocky outcrop in the bay. The sky is filled with soaring frigate birds, brown pelicans and cormorants. But what intrigued me the most was the sighting of the blue-footed boobies. Weren't they supposed to be found only in the far off Galapagos?
Not so, said our guide. Marietas Island is near the northern extent of the migratory range of the boobies, whose feet are as bright blue as robin eggs.
One of the first little towns we visited along the golden coast is Bucerias, a fishing village that boasts cobblestone streets, shops, seafood restaurants and beach clubs.
Another town that retains its authentic Mexican charm is the other San Francisco, or San Pancho, as it's affectionately known. This colourful seaside town is popular with expats, as well as the bronzed, bikinied surfer crowd.
If it's action you're looking for, check out Rincon de Guayabitos. High above the town from our vantage point at a hilltop restaurant called the Vista Guayabitos, we could clearly see and hear revellers splashing in the secluded bay, some being pulled in bright, yellow banana boats, others making waves on their personal water craft, while kids boogie-boarded closer to shore.
A bit farther south, Sayulita would make the Beach Boys proud. The seaside town is internationally recognized for its surfing and boasts a thriving art colony and quaint shops selling everything from clothing and handicrafts to handmade cosmetics and jewelry, some of it made by the native Huichol band.
Accommodations in Riviera Nayarit are as varied as the bird life, from budget digs for the backpacker to high-end resorts that pamper their guests.
Newly opened is the opulent St. Regis Punta Mita, which features suites with butler service, three infinity pools, private cabanas and two Jack Nicklaus signature golf courses. Talk about posh.
We also sampled the Hotel des Artistes, also in Punta de Mita, offering two- and three-bedroom suites. I simply loved the rooftop infinity pool and hot tub with spectacular beachfront views. And world-class chef Thierry Blouet brings a little bit of France to Nayarit.
A change of pace was the hacienda-like Hotel Garza Canela in San Blas. The owners are three sisters, one of whom, Betty Vazquez, is an accomplished chef who dishes up some tasty meals such as chunky ceviche (citrus-marinated seafood) paired with a crispy Chilean white wine at the hotel's El Delfin restaurant. Imagine buying fresh jumbo shrimp right off the boat for $5 a kilo just like Betty does.
The intimate hotel, with its inner courtyard and pretty private chapel, is a bit on the spartan side, but the price is right. What I liked best about it is its central location. Everywhere you want to go in San Blas -- the beach, fishing pier, shops and restaurants -- is within walking distance.
And a cannon shot away on top of a hill is a reconstructed Spanish colonial fort with its commanding view of San Blas.
And there are remnants of an old church, commissioned by Charles I, king of Spain in 1781. It was from San Blas that the Franciscan friars embarked on their mission of conversion in the Californias.
The welcoming committee at the Garza includes three friendly canine cuties: a dachshund, a border collie and a German shepherd.
A fond, lasting image I have of San Blas is that of the three sisters and their three dogs lined up in front of the hotel to say goodbye to their guests.
Being the birding capital of Nayarit, it's not surprising that the Hotel Garza is named after a bird. A heron, to be exact
